Is Fashion Finally Growing Up?

Those of you who follow Hell of a Midlife will know that I recently wrote about my decade-old White Company coat. It stripped my bank balance of £300, but it turned out to be an indulgence that taught me that the most sustainable garment is the one you already own.

Writing that post reminded me that as I’ve aged, my sense of global responsibility has deepened. A wardrobe full of 'nothing to wear' is no longer a rite of passage; it’s a burden, both to me and the planet. It also reminded me of The True Cost - the ground breaking 2015 documentary that threw aside the fashion industry's cloak, to expose a hidden world of exploitation and environmental devastation. Then I got to thinking: since that film aired, has anything really changed?

The answer is a complex tale of two linings: unprecedented awareness versus an ever-accelerating machine of ultra-fast fashion.

When The True Cost first aired, Zara and H&M were the standard bearers of fast fashion. Today, they’ve been joined and, in many ways, overtaken, by a new breed of giants. Primark continues to dominate the High Street by treating clothing as a high-volume commodity, but even they are being chased by ultra-fast chains like Shein and Temu. These newer players use AI to predict trends and churn out thousands of designs daily, often in under a week. This has dramatically worsened the global waste crisis, leaving textile mountains now dominating landscapes from Chile to Ghana.

Is there hope? I like to think so. After all, ethical fashion used to rely on voluntary promises -but governments are now finally stepping in.

• The EU’s Strategy for Sustainable Textiles is phasing in laws to ban the destruction of unsold clothes and require Digital Product Passports to track a garment’s lifecycle.

• In America, the proposed FABRIC Act remains a 'gold standard' beacon of hope for federal garment worker protection. While it still faces significant hurdles in Congress, its influence is already felt in regional victories like California’s Garment Worker Protection Act.

Additionally we are seeing exciting advancements in materials.

• Designers like Stella McCartney continue to be the North Star of the movement, she is using her 2026 collections to debut CO2-absorbing fabrics and bio-engineered feathers.

• We now have mushroom leather (Mycelium), pineapple leather (Pinatex) and recycled fibres like Circulose. Though, a massive challenge remains - scalability. Synthetic fibres like polyester remain cheap because they are a by-product of the oil industry. Until we subsidise mushroom leather or pineapple silk the way we do fossil fuels, these revolutionary materials will remain luxury niche items rather than every-day staples.

One element of the film that stayed with me in particular was the risk workers face daily - highlighted by the Rana Plaza disaster. Since then, the International Accord (a legally binding agreement for factory safety) has expanded significantly. But this is bittersweet. While factories are becoming structurally safer, a living wage remains a radical, elusive concept in 2026. In other words, the International Accord gave the workers a sturdy, waterproof raincoat to protect them from the storm (the dangerous factory). But, because of inflation, they can no longer afford the food or heat they need to stay warm inside the coat. The coat keeps them dry, but they are still freezing.

What Can We Do?

I’m pleased to report that the experts haven't given up on the environment - or the people. While as mentioned, Stella McCartney debuts CO2-absorbing fabrics, Safia Minney is leading 'Fashion Declares!', a movement pushing for a 'Just Transition' that protects both the soil and the souls of the workers. Meanwhile, Lucy Siegle is championing laws that would make fair wages and repair services a legal requirement, not a choice. They are working to ensure that one day, that sturdy raincoat comes with the warmth and dignity every worker deserves.

So if the pioneers of the movement are still fighting, so can we. Begin by researching brands on Good On You. Put your name behind systemic change through EarthDay.org. petitions. And let me tell you about my Backyard Test: Before you buy, ask yourself: Will I wear this 30 times? Is it built to last? Imagine every item you discard piling up in your own backyard. If your personal 'textile mountain' was growing outside your window, would you still buy this?

Finally, treat 'new' as a last resort. By extending a piece's life by just nine months, you dramatically reduce its impact and keep your personal textile mountain at bay.

A long lasting piece of clothing is more than just fabric; it’s proof that we don't need more - we need better.

What’s the oldest item in your wardrobe that you still love? Let’s celebrate the true value of quality in the comments below.